PS3 m12 Lens Difference
by Peau on Jun.14, 2009, under Uncategorized
Here are some comparison shots showing just how much better the PS3 camera is once you replace the OEM lens:
(Setup: Outside, midday)
Left: OEM__________Right: 3.6mm m12 Lens
OEM Lens
3.66mm m12 Lens
The perfect focus of the after-market lens is important when trying to get very accurate blobs in optical-based multitouch setups, and also when using fiducial patterns like those used by the Reactivision Team.
For finger tracking, the OEM lens can work fine, but should really only be used if on a tight budget, as the results from the more focused image will be better.
Here are some comparison shots using both lenses in a MT table:
(m12 lens)
(Comparison: OEM on left, m12 on right)
The reason why the OEM looks in focus is because the camera is only a few inches from the hand. Once you move away from it more, the image will go out of focus quickly, thus setups with the camera more than a few inches away won’t be in focus.
(OEM lens)
(3.66mm m12 lens)
(2.1mm m12 lens – Fisheye/Wide Angle)
(OEM lens)
(m12 lens)
So as you can see, the screen shots support what I said before. The OEM lens can work for either really short camera distances, or for finger tracking systems that dont need high accuracy.
My store carries both m12 and OEM moddified cameras, so be sure to check it out and let me know if you have any questions.
June 14th, 2009 on 9:11 pm
From comment on old blog:
“Anonymous said…
With the 2.1 mm lens why does it look like the camera is much farther back? Wouldn’t this lens reduce the required distance from the table?
June 14, 2009 8:58 PM ”
The camera is in the same location as the other pictures, but because it is also viewing the sides of the box the center image is closer. Yes you can move it closer to the image of course and reduce the distance to the screen.
June 15th, 2009 on 1:19 am
Hey Peau!
U using any irfiltering in the pictures? And if so, how did you mount it?
June 15th, 2009 on 9:10 am
Yes both of the cameras have IR filters. The filters are between the lens and the cmos sensor on the camera board. You can buy both models at my store:
http://peauproductions.com/store/
June 17th, 2009 on 6:38 pm
I already have a ps3 eye. If I buy the m12 mount is it easy to attach the visible light filter?
June 17th, 2009 on 6:51 pm
Yes, when you buy the mount you have to also buy a infrared band pass filter to fit in it as I have on my store. The m12 filters I have are made specifically to fit in the mount. You just take the whole camera apart, take off the OEM mount/lens and then put the m12 mount on, then push the filter in with something soft like a q-tip and screw everything back together again. Contact me through my store if you still have anymore questions.
June 22nd, 2009 on 1:09 pm
the filter that I ordered is dirty. How should I clean it?
June 22nd, 2009 on 1:20 pm
You can use rubbing alcohol with a q-tip, which is what I use and there haven’t been any problems. But usually just using a microfiber cloth is good enough.
June 24th, 2009 on 4:15 am
How easy is it to change a IR filter (say from 780nm to 880nm) from the new assembled cameras with lens mounting ?
June 24th, 2009 on 11:35 am
Well, you have to completely dismantle the camera since the filter is resting against the camera sensor. The screws that hold the mount on can become stripped if you unscrew/screw them too much, but you can always use one of the screws holding the OEM plastic housing together for the mount. Also, every time you open it up to change the filter you could introduce dust and smudge the lens, so you have to be careful.
July 13th, 2009 on 8:31 pm
Hi~if I get a “2.1mm m12 lens – Fisheye/Wide Angle” at your store, is there a way that I can deal with the fisheye effect in ccv? cus I want to shorten the distance between the screen and ps3 eye, is that possible to do by useing the wide angle lens, but not multicam?
July 14th, 2009 on 11:35 am
Yes you can use the wideangle lens to shorten the distance to the screen. Keep in mind though that the very edges of the image that the lens sees wont be the same quality of blobs than the middle does, due to the extreme curvature of the lens. So you’ll need to overshoot the touch surface by a inch or so. Fixing a distorted image should probably be done before it’s passed into ccv (with a filter or another program). Or you can make it work fine by just adding a ton of calibration points in ccv (that’s what I do).
July 14th, 2009 on 12:31 pm
Hello Peau, as i’m trying to get as much information as possible on the issue of building MT FTIR table i came across your numerous posts on the nui group forum – and you seem to know much on the subject – i decided to ask you directly.
I have 120x77cm acryl plate 10mm thick with borders cut at 45 degrees angle and they are highly polished. so i’m ok with that.
I have also bought dragonfly2 dr2-bw camera with pentax 3-8mm 1:1 CS TS3V310 lens and a LP780-40.5 IR filter on it.
the issue i have is with LEDs… SFH485 or SFH485P… (angle or intensity?) – (regarding the size)… what’s the best for the job and do you know that someone did that “20x 10mm Triple Chip 200mW Infrared IR LED Night Vision” thing?
people say that 1 inch of distance between leds is enough… will i get better (smoother) results if i put them on 20mm distance?.. or 15mm distance? or…?
(i want the table to the best possible so 40 more leds doesnt make big budget difference if the tracking will improove… (i will put leds on all for sides of course.))
i calculated putting them on 12mm distance and it sums up to 314 pcs around the table… will that quantity unnecessary rise the power needed to operate and/or will it heet up the table? (in some post you say “the more you fill the acryl with IR light – less problem you will have with ambient light)
furthermore… the acryl plate i’m doing is for the table… but can this setup be used with top projection also? (as if i put a projector on the ceiling? (sory if this is a stupid question
(IR camera would stay below the table of course)
i would like to achieve that “almost zero pressure” needed to trigger the tracker… (fine sensitivity of the table) – is the number of silicon coats applied to the diffuser only parameter for sensitivity? (thay say 5-6 coats…)?
i think i will use “IFOHA Digiline Contrast” for the diffuser… is it self adhesive? will i be able to apply silicon on it?
and last question: is the alluminium “C” profile rail the best way to mount LEDs? and will the aluminum that touches the acryl trigger the ftir? and if so, what material should i use to prevent this/isolate point of contact?
well… that’s all… thank you very much in advance.
inti.
July 14th, 2009 on 1:00 pm
You can always email me at peauproductions @ gmail [dot] com if you want to talk directly and not through comments on my blog.
As for the LEDs, most people I think use the SFH485P, though I’ve never used them as I hate the idea of FTIR and having to poor/roll a silicon layer.
I havn’t heard back from the guy that bought a bunch or those 3 chip LEDs, though they should work much better since they have a much higher intensity.
Yes, 1 inch spacing is “ideal”, but feel free to space them closer if you can afford the cost difference.
See the LED calculator links on the right side of my blog…they tell you how much current your circuit will draw.
Sure, as long as the camera is below you can top project. Make sure though that the use of a hot plate (low pass filter) over the projector will be more vital if it does emit any IR light.
I can’t help you with silicon layering or the process, check the forum for help or refer to my website: http://www.peauproductions.com/compL.html
The Digiline Contrast is self adhesive, so I dont know if applying silicon to it would work or not, though it may if you leave the backing on.
You can mount the LEDs anyway you want, though make sure you don’t short them out on the metal rails. Anything touching the acrylic that isn’t going to be moving will just be subtracted out of the image.
Email me for more info